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January 30, 2010

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER: PARIS COUTURE S/S '10

I would love to meet Jean Paul Gaultier. Out of all the haute couture designers, he seems to have the most fun with fashion. He comes off as the kind of person who takes his work– not himself – seriously, and that is a very attractive quality.

1For the Spring 2010 season, Gaultier was clearly inspired by Mexico as a number of his models walked the runway with intricately crafted, hyper-detailed sombreros (no two were alike, and they ranged from black veiled ones to flowered, laced, and ruffled ones), and later with beautifully styled banana leaves.
If one’s attention may have waned looking at the Elie Saab Couture looks, eyes were glued in entrancement looking at what made its way down the Gaultier runway. One look featured a cage skirt, while another saw one of the model’s legs covered in armor, while another featured pineapple-esque breast coverings (reminiscent of the French designer’s infamous cone bra that was worn by Madonna). There were even handbags that looked as if they were crafted out of banana leaves.

2No not every look was head to toe wearable, and there were certainly more than a handful of looks that were thrown in purely for show, but taken apart there were a ton of pieces that could be worn straight off the runway, for the somewhat daring and fashion forward at least.

3One side note, there were some pieces that looked somewhat bug-inspired, made out strips of leather that had been interwoven in a somewhat Bottega Veneta-like way. They bulged out at the sides and were cut short, and ended up reminding me of some outfits Lady Gaga has worn recently. I wouldn't be surprised if we saw her photographed in some of these pieces in the coming months..stay tuned.

Make Podcast: Fashion Meets Technology

Fashion TechnologyFashion designers Diana Eng (recently of Bravo's "Project Runway") and Emily Albinski first made headlines when their Inflatable Dress made the cover of ID Magazine last fall. In their first fashion show together, Diana and Emily are pleased to also launch their new collection under their brand "Blackbox Nation." The duo strives to push forward technology in the fashion world.


Fashion Technology
Mashing up biological and technological concepts with fashion gives them a great edge in the fashion world.

Fashion TechnologyThis dress is designed to incorporate a hacked vacuum cleaner to inflate the dress and give it volume. A sexy plastic cast corset with lots of switches embedded in it completed the look. Never has a vacuum cleaner looked so sexy!

More craziness from the fashion world

I didn't think anything could beat the Pac-Man helmets seen the other day at London Fashion Week.

But this footwear from British-based designers Aminaka Wilmont is even more ridiculous:

 fashion world


 fashion world
If that's not bad enough, look at these creations. They might give you ideas for Halloween:

Fashion funk from Paris

Fashion funk
When I first saw photos from shows this week at fashion week in Paris, I thought there was hope that some designers were looking out for regular women. See, models wore dresses like this:

Designed to excel

FashionsReeta Sharma writes about an IIM graduate who has carved out a niche for herself as a fashion designer in the USA

Ruby Ashraf is a pleasantly chirpy woman. Even when she kept me entertained with her interesting comments on life, I did not fail to see her childlike innocence. Neither her mind-boggling success nor her wealth nor her fame has gone to her head.
Ruby is a famous fashion designer in the USA with her own distribution and display centres at Dallas, Atlanta and Chicago, which bring an annual turnover of $ 10 million. And, interestingly, she has never done any course in fashion designing. She, however, acquired an MBA degree from IIM, Ahemdabad, in 1983.
Despite tasting success and managing a full-scale business in the competitive US market, there’s no hint of arrogance or conceit in her. She regales you about her first venture in Texas with her best friend Sunita, which turned out to be a flop show. "We enthusiastically put up a stall in front of the university with colorful Indian stuff. But lo and behold, we were shunted out as we had no licence."
Talking of Ahemdabad, Ruby slips into a world of "hard yet wonderful days." Even after two decades, she can give you minute details of those days. "I was very afraid of Professor Bhandari and Professor A. K. Jain. They were excellent teachers and obviously wanted best out of the students, which meant that we remained on our toes all the time."
In the USA, a compliment on a dress that she wore at a Christmas party, opened a new chapter in her life. "Everybody thought that it was a designer label. When I told them that I had designed and stitched it myself, they were wonderstruck and coaxed me to do some dresses for them. It was routine work for me as I had learnt stitching from my mother in my childhood. But the experiment was a tremendous hit, paving way for me to start my own business. Management came easily to me because of my training at Ahmedabad."
One after the other, Ruby opened her wholesale showrooms, where retailers come to place orders and watch her models display dresses designed by her. A perfectionist, she likes to leave nothing to chance. Whether designing or organising model shows or managing delivery of orders, Ruby monitors everything herself.
The business of wholesale clothing in the USA is basically dominated by men. "But Americans accepted me right away. I have never been discriminated against as a woman. Initially, my accent was a major problem. Yet, it never affected my business. Of course, now you can vouch for my American accent," Ruby bursts into infectious laughter
For her dresses, she imports fabric from India and China. "Although I am an Indian, I feel sorry for my country. I would love to buy all the fabric from India but corrupt practices, disorganised system and inordinate delays put me off. Despite the fact that my mother is in India, I spend only a day or two there. In China, I end up staying for eight to 10 days. I do not know their language and I miss my food yet I am forced to do business in China, because people there are simply super. The quality of their fabric is extremely good. They open their market for you in the most alluring manner. They hold fabric shows for you to make the process of selection easier. As opposed to India, importing from China is totally hassle-free."
Ruby has come out with two fashion magazines. She sold one million copies and this increased her business output by 25 per cent. No wonder she has been invited to be a part of the Young Presidents Organization, an international US-based association of all young entrepreneurs who have crossed the $10 million turnover.
Is she excited about making it to the prestigious organisation? "You know this thought of turnover did not even cross my mind until it was pointed out. All my life I have believed in the Bhagavadgita’s teachings that one must do the day’s work with passion and that that should give one satisfaction. I enjoy doing my work and I give my best to it. I had always dreamt high in life. But that dream was not related to making money. Today my dream has come my way and the money is like bonus. I am passionate about anything that I may do." They say that behind every successful man there is a woman. In the case of Ruby’s success, her husband Javed Ashraf has supported her in every way. He is an expert in genetics as well as an excellent photographer and shoots his wife’s shows.

Celebrity Style: Stars Sparkle on New Year's Eve

Leighton Meester in Nina Ricci  Leighton Meester in Nina Ricci

Stars dazzled this New Year's Eve in sparkling confections. Sequined minis proved to be the nights most popular choice with celebs like Fergie, Mariah Carey, Nicole Richie and Eva Longoria Parker showing some major leg; J.Lo made a statement of her own in a bold body suit. Her are some stand out looks from the night's festivities.

Leighton Meester in Nina Ricci
It was a whirlwind week for Meester who performed in Chicago and jetted to Miami and Vegas for some New Year's revelry. Teh Gossip Girl star wore this sunny confection to party at Tao in the Venetian Hotel.

Paris Fashion Week

Guy Laroche's story began with what looked like an homage to the goth fantasy of the Goblin King, but ended in a working-girl turned Cinderella fairy tale with his wearable wonders. While he clearly reveled in fantastic visions of the winged-sleeves, longhaired little capes, black lace and oversized gold sequins, he didn't overlook the necessity of sexy... not revealing but rather flirtacious in a sophisticated kind of way. Dresses that gave us a glimpse of one shoulder, a plunging neckline, waistlines wrapped up and tied to bond the dress securely to it's wearer, and even what appeared to be a leather or even rubber? dress elevated the notion of sex appeal.

The color story was just as eclectic as the fabric. Shiny metallics, muted smokey plums and even fushia and bright red (a spin on the infamous Little Red Riding Hood?) went down the runway, offering forms of punctuation that would evoke immediate, various kinds of emotional responses.

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Celebrity Fashion Smackdown. Who Wore It Better?

Rebecca Gayheart vs. Eva LongoriaRebecca Gayheart vs. Eva Longoria in Monique Lhuillier

Winner: Tie. A rematch has been scheduled since these two women look virtually identical and are even wearing the same (or very similar) shoes. They are indistinguishable.

Rachel Bilson vs. Vanessa SimmonsRachel Bilson vs. Vanessa Simmons in Abaete

Winner: Clearly Rachel Bilson. First her shoe choice is much better. We just hate white shoes and they just don't look right with this dress. The length to which the dress is hemmed is also much more flattering on Bilson. With the sweetheart neckline Simmon's necklace is overkill.


Hayden Panettiere vs. Dita Von TeeseHayden Panettiere vs. Dita Von Teese in Monique Lhuillier

Winner: Dita Von Teese. Ouch, that's got to hurt. This was a very close match. The color of the dress is better suited for Von Teese's skintone, not to mention the fit is better. The dress is pulling on Panettiere. She's busting out all over. However, bare legs are preferable with this dress, but Von Teese always looks amazing. Doesn't she?

Catherine Zeta-Jones vs. Victoria SilvstedtCatherine Zeta-Jones vs. Victoria Silvstedt in Hervé Légér

Winner: Catherine Zeta-Jones. Even if I were a Playmate, I still wouldn't want to get into the fashion ring with Zeta-Jones. Granted, only 2% of the human population can wear Hervé Légér and about a third of that actually look good in it so kudos to both women. However, Zeta-Jones wins for her minimal choice of accessories. With a dress like this, you don't need many! Silvstedt's coat just doesn't go withthe dress and neither do her shoes and bag.


Carrie Underwood vs. Heidi KlumCarrie Underwood vs. Heidi Klum in Olsen Twin line, Elizabeth and James

Winner: I can't believe this upset, but the winner is Carrie Underwood. She is much more pulled together than Klum. But in all fairness, Klum is probably running around shopping and Underwood is most likely going somewhere...camera worthy. Klum always looks amazing, so we will not hold this against her. These are two totally different interpretations.


Emmy Rossum v. Miley CyrusEmmy Rossum v. Miley Cyrus in Notte by Marchesa

Winner: Emmy Rossum. TKO. Suede boots with chiffon really makes us cranky, not to mention black suede boots with this light as air frock is just a big, overpowering no! Then again, Cyrus is only 15 so she has time to learn. At least she is dressing more age appropriate here then she has been recently.

Victoria Beckham tops Blackwell's 2007 worst-dressed list

Victoria BeckhamWhile 2007 may have appeared like the year for Victoria Beckham to flex her fashion muscle, Mr Blackwell doesn't agree. The fashion critic has named the Spice Girl as the worst-dressed star of 2007 in his annual round-up of celebrity fashion victims. "In one skinny-mini monstrosity after another, pouty 'Posh' can really wreck-em," Blackwell said of Beckham.

Designer Fashion Model Camilla Finn

Camilla Finn 1Camilla Finn Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear Myself

Camilla Finn 2Camilla Finn Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear Myself

Camilla Finn 3Camilla Finn Spring 2007 Ready-to-Wear Ralph Lauren
Camilla Finn 4Camilla Finn Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear Unique

Camilla Finn 5Camilla Finn Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear Calvin Klein

Camilla Finn 6Camilla Finn Spring 2006 Ready-to-Wear Andrew Gn
Camilla Finn 7Camilla Finn Spring 2006 Read

Style

lady in red lady.in.red
Oscar.de.la.Renta
Red Dress Heart Truth Fashion Show

walk in the clouds walk.in.the.clouds
Gaultier.Paris.Haute.Couture.and.Boucheron.
Jewels Costume Institute’s Part of the Year

bohemian rhapsodybohemian.rhapsody
.Gucci.
Designer Dinners for Gucci, Marchesa, and Celine

nothing but blue skiesnothing.but.blue.skies
Oscar.de.la.Renta
Allure Event at El Museo del Barrio

bubblegum surprisebubblegum.surprise
.Gucci.
Benefit for Malawi and UNICEF

Fashion love

Camilla Belle

Current Joe Jonas main squeeze, Camilla Belle is turning heads in the fashion scene with her trademark dark, defined eyebrows and her flawless Brazilian features (all thanks to her mother’s Portuguese background).

Born and raised in Los Angeles, California, Camilla Belle Routh learned to speak both English and Portuguese in her household. While she may have a natural talent for acting, it’s not as much of a shocker to learn that her style most definitely is influenced by her fashion designer mother. Take a cue from this Brazilian beauty.

Parting words

Parting words
That's a small excerpt from an email exchange I recently had with a friend of mine, who has worked with some of the fashion world's most critically-adored names. We had been writing each other back and forth about the Milan collections and her opinion really got me thinking about the disparity between what is shown on the runway and what we wear in real life. While many of the clothes were beautiful and inspired, I think Milan is the biggest example of this gap so far with its parade of looks that screamed "for magazine editorials only." But what makes a "good easy piece" anyway? My friend noted that many people make the mistake of equating it with basics from J.Crew. But easy, doesn't have to mean bland. For my friend, it's a wearable piece from Comme des Garçons. It can mean a number of things, depending on the woman you ask. But it's a topic I'd like to explore this week in Paris.


And as far as the remainder of my work trip in Milan goes, time and newspaper deadlines got the best of me. But thanks to countless cups of cappuccino (it's my weakness in Italy, I never drink coffee anywhere else) and glasses of fresh squeezed blood orange juice, I was able to do it all, and not get sick! I hope to be able to take more breaks in Paris to keep you up to speed on the cool things I encounter.

Fashion

Fashion Style 9LOUIS VUITTON, F/W 09

So fashion week is over, but I will continue to post runway images from the fall collections! No five-word reviews, though, critique is over until september I reckon

Fashion Style 8GIVENCHY

Tisci pulls out an incredible and diverse yet simple collection

Fashion Style 7RICK OWENS

wearable, cool minimalism

Fashion Style 6BALMAIN

like outtakes from last season

fashion in five words

LANVIN, F.W09LANVIN, F.W09

GIVENCHY F/W09GIVENCHY F/W09

BALMAIN, F/W09BALMAIN, F/W09

GIANFRANCO FERRE, F/W09GIANFRANCO FERRE, F/W09

LOUIS VUITTON, F/W09

Nature of the Work

Fashion designers studyFashion designers study trends and design clothing and accessories for consumers.

Fashion designers help create the billions of dresses, suits, shoes, and other clothing and accessories purchased every year by consumers. Designers study fashion trends, sketch designs of clothing and accessories, select colors and fabrics, and oversee the final production of their designs. Clothing designers create and help produce men's, women's, and children's apparel, including casual wear, suits, sportswear, formalwear, outerwear, maternity, and intimate apparel. Footwear designers help create and produce different styles of shoes and boots. Accessory designers help create and produce items such as handbags, belts, scarves, hats, hosiery, and eyewear, which add the finishing touches to an outfit. (The work of jewelers and precious stone and metal workers is described elsewhere in the Handbook.) Some fashion designers specialize in clothing, footwear, or accessory design, but others create designs in all three fashion categories.

The design process from initial design concept to final production takes between 18 and 24 months. The first step in creating a design is researching current fashion and making predictions of future trends. Some designers conduct their own research, while others rely on trend reports published by fashion industry trade groups. Trend reports indicate what styles, colors, and fabrics will be popular for a particular season in the future. Textile manufacturers use these trend reports to begin designing fabrics and patterns while fashion designers begin to sketch preliminary designs. Designers then visit manufacturers or trade shows to procure samples of fabrics and decide which fabrics to use with which designs.

Once designs and fabrics are chosen, a prototype of the article using cheaper materials is created and then tried on a model to see what adjustments to the design need to be made. This also helps designers to narrow their choices of designs to offer for sale. After the final adjustments and selections have been made, samples of the article using the actual materials are sewn and then marketed to clothing retailers. Many designs are shown at fashion and trade shows a few times a year. Retailers at the shows place orders for certain items, which are then manufactured and distributed to stores.

Computer-aided design (CAD) is increasingly being used in the fashion design industry. Although most designers initially sketch designs by hand, a growing number also translate these hand sketches to the computer. CAD allows designers to view designs of clothing on virtual models and in various colors and shapes, thus saving time by requiring fewer adjustments of prototypes and samples later.

Depending on the size of their design firm and their experience, fashion designers may have varying levels of involvement in different aspects of design and production. In large design firms, fashion designers often are the lead designers who are responsible for creating the designs, choosing the colors and fabrics, and overseeing technical designers who turn the designs into a final product. They are responsible for creating the prototypes and patterns and work with the manufacturers and suppliers during the production stages. Large design houses also employ their own patternmakers, tailors, and sewers who create the master patterns for the design and sew the prototypes and samples. Designers working in small firms, or those new to the job, usually perform most of the technical, patternmaking, and sewing tasks, in addition to designing the clothing. (The work of pattern makers, hand sewers, and tailors is covered in the statement on textile, apparel, and furnishings occupations elsewhere in the Handbook.)

Fashion designers working for apparel wholesalers or manufacturers create designs for the mass market. These designs are manufactured in various sizes and colors. A small number of high-fashion (haute couture) designers are self-employed and create custom designs for individual clients, usually at very high prices. Other high-fashion designers sell their designs in their own retail stores or cater to specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. These designers create a mixture of original garments and those that follow established fashion trends.

Some fashion designers specialize in costume design for performing arts, motion picture, and television productions. The work of costume designers is similar to other fashion designers. Costume designers, however, perform extensive research on the styles worn during the period in which the performance takes place, or they work with directors to select and create appropriate attire. They make sketches of designs, select fabric and other materials, and oversee the production of the costumes. They also must stay within the costume budget for the particular production item.

Work environment. Fashion designers employed by manufacturing establishments, wholesalers, or design firms generally work regular hours in well-lighted and comfortable settings. Designers who freelance generally work on a contract, or by the job. They frequently adjust their workday to suit their clients' schedules and deadlines, meeting with the clients during evenings or weekends when necessary. Freelance designers tend to work longer hours and in smaller, more congested, environments, and are under pressure to please clients and to find new ones in order to maintain a steady income. Regardless of their work setting, all fashion designers occasionally work long hours to meet production deadlines or prepare for fashion shows.

The global nature of the fashion business requires constant communication with suppliers, manufacturers, and customers all over the United States and the world. Most fashion designers travel several times a year to trade and fashion shows to learn about the latest fashion trends. Designers also may travel frequently to meet with fabric and materials suppliers and with manufacturers who produce the final apparel products.

Celebrity Fashion

fashion CelebrityCelebrity Fashion

By definition, celebrities are under constant scrutiny from the media and the fans that adore or hate them. For a public figure, looks is extremely important and contributes to the growth or drop in popularity.
Celebrity fashion is a perfect occasion for media coverage and a source of profit for designers and other fashion oriented industries. Attaching a famous (popular) face to a line of clothing, perfumes or accessories will boost or ruin sales. Some of these celebrities have unique fashion touches that can become easily identifiable and adopted by the masses. Celebrity fashion is so influential because it springs from the fans’ adulation of the fame status.
The person asserts himself/herself as a fashion icon through little details: Nicole Kidman through her vintage brooches, Dita von Teese through her classic ‘50s dresses and pale skin, Jackie Kennedy through her chic fawn coats and pillbox hats, Jennifer Aniston through her silky hair, Jennifer Lopez through her furs and oversized hats, Beyonce through her sparkly, asymmetrically small outfits. Each of them inspires a certain style that will be adopted by those who enjoy it.

fashion Celebrity 1Celebrity Fashion 1

In the last years celebrity fashion took a step further, increasing in popularity and availability. Stars have created their personal lines of clothing, reflecting their personal style. Such are Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker, Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen, supermodel Kate Moss, singer Gwen Stefani, Victoria Beckham and many others. Each has more or less accessible fashion items. For example Victoria Beckham designed jeans from very luxurious Japanese denim that retail at $280. At the other end, Sarah Jessica Parker’s line, called “Bitten”, is specifically made to be widely accessible, with items that do not cross $20 and come in sizes from 0 to 22.
Realizing the importance of a famous face attached to a product, important companies like Coca-Cola, Nike, Apple or L’Oreal convinced stars to endorse their products - because celebrities vouching for the quality of an item will influence the customer’s behavior.
It all adds up to the phenomenon of celebrity fashion that directly affects the public’s choices. By association with the beauty, artistic talents, fame and social impact celebrities and personalities have, people will tend to imitate and adopt.

Megan Park's works of art

Megan Park's works of artMegan Park autumn/winter 2008

I was looking at some of the shows from L'Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival 2008 and I came across the wonderful collection of Megan Park. Every item, garment or accessory, is created by hand with beading and embroidery made by highly skilled artisans in India. Even the prints and dyes are produced using old handcraft techniques.
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